---
title: "What to decide before a specification"
description: "Put the retail position first, decide what the product must protect, then turn those choices into a specification that can control them."
url: "https://surajmalstudio.com/guides/what-to-decide-before-a-specification"
---
# What to decide before a specification
8 min read Developing your product Updated 7 Sept 2026
Put the retail position first, decide what the product must protect, then turn those choices into a specification that can control them.
## Quick answers from this guide
### Why the intended retail position belongs at the beginning of the design brief.
Every physical choice has to make the intended retail position credible. Setting it before drawing alternatives keeps silhouette, material, construction and fastening choices available for design instead of making the position a late verdict on dependent decisions.
### How to turn a product promise into permissions for silhouette, material, construction, components and surface.
Translate the position into a product promise expressed in physical terms, then use that promise to decide the permitted silhouette, material behaviour, construction, components, surface and range relationships.
### Which product decisions depend on one another, and how to control the consequences of revision.
Purpose and promise shape the silhouette, silhouette calls for particular material behaviour, material permits some construction methods and resists others, and construction determines viable edges, openings, reinforcements and component attachments. A revision reopens the later choices that depended on it.
### How blank fields, placeholders and conflicting entries reveal decisions that remain open.
A blank field shows that a decision is open, a reference has not been selected or responsibility is unclear. Placeholders can hide the same uncertainty, while conflicting fields show that the specification does not yet control one internally consistent product.
### When a design is coherent enough to hand over for technical specification.
The design is ready for technical documentation when the product promise is clear, the retail position is credible in the physical choices and the dependencies between those choices are visible. Each open question also needs a defined owner, test and consequence.
A tech pack, field by field Every field is a decision
- Technical flat Decided
- Measurements, tolerances and grade rules Decided
- Bill of materials Open
- Construction notes Decided
- Colourways and approval references Open
- Labelling and packing Decided
What a supplier does when a field arrives thin.
6 fields · 2 still open
## 01Put the retail position first
A specification records a product that has already been decided. It can define measurements, materials, construction, components, colours and finishes with precision, but it cannot decide why those choices belong together. That work starts with the intended retail position because every physical choice has to make that position credible. Price is therefore not a calculation applied after design. It is part of the brief from which design proceeds.
Retail position describes the company the garment keeps. It establishes what the customer will compare, what degree of distinction the product needs to show and which expectations attach to its use, finish and longevity. Those expectations are not met by adding detail indiscriminately. They are met when the silhouette, material, construction and surface treatment present a coherent reason for the garment to occupy its place.
Set the position before drawing alternatives. When it arrives later, it becomes a verdict on an arrangement of choices that already depend on one another. Material may have established the volume, internal construction may have established the material, and a fastening may have established the front of the garment. Asking the finished idea to move commercially can then unravel the idea itself. An early constraint keeps all of those choices available for design.
The purpose is not to predict a cost from a sketch. It is to decide what the garment must communicate within a known commercial position, then give each design decision a role in that communication. This makes the boundary productive: it narrows the field without supplying the answer.
The retail position is the room in which the product is designed. A specification becomes useful only after the important choices inside that room have been made.
## 02Name what the product must protect
Translate the position into a product promise expressed in physical terms. The promise might centre on a particular line, ease of movement, a compact surface, soft collapse, hard-wearing utility, quiet internal finishing or a closure that disappears into the garment. It should describe something a person can see, feel or experience in use. General claims of quality are too broad to direct a pattern, cloth or seam.
Place the intended wearer and occasion beside that promise. A garment worn through frequent movement asks different things of ease, recovery, openings and care from a garment whose purpose is formal presence. The same visual idea can require a different material and construction response when its use changes. Purpose is not background copy; it is a source of technical requirements.
Decide which aspect carries recognition and which aspects support it. A defining silhouette may need a restrained surface. A distinctive textile may need a simpler cut so its behaviour remains legible. Functional hardware may be the product language rather than an accessory applied to it. Hierarchy prevents every element from competing to justify the same position.
Write the promise as a test that alternatives can answer. If the garment depends on a fluid uninterrupted line, a proposed seam can be judged by whether it preserves that line. If it depends on adaptable use, a fastening can be judged by what it enables rather than by its novelty. A test turns intention into a working design tool.
## 03Turn position into permissions
The position and promise together establish what the product permits. They indicate where complexity is doing necessary work, where a material quality deserves protection and where a quieter solution will strengthen the whole. This is the point at which commercial discipline becomes visible design rather than a later round of removal.
Silhouette
Decide the proportion, volume, length and balance that make the product recognisable. These choices set the work the pattern and material must do.
Material behaviour
Specify drape, structure, stretch, recovery, opacity, touch and care according to the promise. A fibre name cannot describe how the garment needs to behave.
Construction
Give seams, openings, edges and internal support a reason connected to appearance, movement or endurance. Complexity earns its place by changing the experience.
Components
Choose fastenings, hardware, labels and other components as parts of the system. Their weight, placement and method of attachment affect the garment around them.
Surface and colour
Set the role of colour, artwork, wash, embroidery or print in recognition. Surface decisions should reinforce the product hierarchy rather than repair an unresolved form.
Range relationship
Identify decisions that can be shared across related products where sharing improves coherence. Repetition is useful when it is part of the range language.
When the complete design presses against its constraint, return to this hierarchy. Protect the choice that delivers the promise, remove duplicated gestures and simplify the supporting decisions around it. Equal reduction across every element weakens the reason for the product while leaving its complexity intact. Selective editing can make the defining idea clearer.
If the defining choice itself cannot remain, the product idea and its retail position are in conflict. That conflict needs a design decision, not optimistic wording in a document. Either the promise changes, the means of delivering it changes or the position is reconsidered. The specification should record the resolution rather than conceal the disagreement.
## 04Resolve dependent decisions in order
Product decisions form a chain. Purpose and promise shape the silhouette. Silhouette calls for particular material behaviour. Material permits some construction and resists other methods. Construction determines the viable edges, openings, reinforcements and component attachments. Colour and brand application then occupy a garment whose physical logic is already understood.
This order is not rigid, because design develops through comparison and return. It does provide a way to recognise consequences. If a material alternative changes the balance of the garment, the pattern decision that depended on the earlier behaviour reopens. If a fastening adds weight at an edge, the support and drape at that edge need review. Revision stays controlled when its dependent choices are named.
Keep a decision record alongside the evolving design. For each significant choice, state the outcome it protects, the reference that demonstrates it and the later choices that rely on it. This record is different from a specification: it explains why a decision exists while the specification explains how to reproduce it. Both become clearer when their jobs remain separate.
Change one, and these reopen 6 decisions
1. 01 Purpose and promise The physical thing the garment has to deliver in use The written promise, stated as a test an alternative can answer
2. 02 Silhouette Proportion, volume, length and balance that make the product recognisable The approved drawing and the pattern that produces it
3. 03 Material behaviour Drape, structure, stretch, recovery, opacity, touch and care A tested quality, not a fibre description
4. 04 Construction How appearance, movement and endurance are achieved at the seam A sewn reference of the seam, edge or opening in question
5. 05 Edges and components Weight, placement and attachment, and the cloth around them The approved component in the assembly it will sit in
6. 06 Colour and brand Recognition on a garment whose physical logic is already settled A controlled reference and a defined viewing condition
Each decision carries consequences into later decisions.
What reopens is walked forward through the chain, never written down. A record that names what rests on a decision is what makes a revision countable instead of a surprise.
Use comparison to settle choices that remain subjective. Place material options against the same silhouette and use condition. Review construction alternatives against the same external appearance and internal demand. Compare component options in the garment rather than in isolation. A shared question makes the differences meaningful.
Resolve conflicts at the level where they begin. A pocket that interrupts the intended line is not merely a pocket-detail problem if carrying capacity is central to the use. The silhouette, placement and function need to be considered together.
Treating connected decisions as separate fields only moves the conflict onto the sample.
## 05Give every field a decision
Once the product logic is coherent, the specification fields become records of settled intent. Each one should control an observable part of the approved product.
Measurements
Describe the approved relationship between garment and body through defined points and methods of measure.
Materials
Identify the quality whose behaviour has been tested against the design, together with the reference that governs it.
Construction
Record how the required appearance and performance are achieved at seams, openings, edges and internal support.
Components, colour and artwork
Control the remaining variables through approved qualities, placements, references and application methods.
A blank field is useful evidence. It shows that a decision is open, that a reference has not been selected or that responsibility for the answer is unclear. Rewrite the blank as a design question before supplying content. If the material is unknown, ask which behaviour is necessary. If a measurement is unknown, ask where the garment should sit and how it should move. The question restores the field to its purpose.
Placeholders can hide the same uncertainty. Words such as soft, premium, standard or neat may sound descriptive while leaving the outcome uncontrolled. Replace them with observable intent and an approved reference wherever the decision depends on interpretation. A supplier can reproduce a demonstrated edge or measured placement; an unqualified preference leaves the standard to negotiation.
Check agreement between fields rather than reading each one alone. The bill of materials must support the construction notes. The construction must preserve the points of measure. Artwork placement must respond to seams and grade movement. Care expectations must be compatible with the full assembly, not only the main cloth. Internal consistency is what turns detail into control.
Fields that have to agree with each other 4 pairs
1. Bill of materials Construction notes
2. Construction Points of measure
3. Artwork placement Seams and grade movement
4. Care instruction The full assembly
Each field pair can disagree even when both entries are complete.
Every field in each pair can be filled in correctly and the specification can still be unbuildable. Nothing in a field-by-field read catches these, because the error is in the relationship.
Include the method of verification wherever acceptance depends on more than appearance. A measurement needs a defined route, a colour needs a controlled reference and a functional outcome needs a suitable test. The specification does not have to contain every procedure, but it must point unambiguously to the evidence that will settle the decision. That link keeps approval connected to the original intent.
## 06Know when specification can begin
The design is ready for technical documentation when the product promise is clear, the retail position is credible in the physical choices and the dependencies between those choices are visible. Not every sampling question needs to be closed, but each open question needs a defined owner, test and consequence. Deliberate uncertainty can be managed; unnamed uncertainty spreads.
At handover, distinguish fixed decisions from matters the technical process will refine. Fit intent can be fixed while exact measurements develop through fitting. Material behaviour can be fixed while a suitable quality is sourced. An external appearance can be fixed while the construction method is tested. This distinction gives technical work room to solve without giving it responsibility for inventing the product.
Review the handover from the other side of the table. A reader should be able to identify what the garment is trying to preserve, which references govern it, which decisions may move and what must be checked when they do. If the document requires the reader to infer the product hierarchy, the design decisions have not yet been fully transferred.
The specification can now perform its proper function: translating an agreed product into repeatable instructions and carrying approved changes forward without losing their context. Its completeness comes from the decisions behind it, and its authority comes from the coherence between them.
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## Read next
### [From pattern to approved sample](https://surajmalstudio.com/guides/from-pattern-to-approved-sample)
Treat the base pattern, fit approval, grade rule, size set and production sample as one connected sequence of decisions.
### [What the document that gets a garment made contains](https://surajmalstudio.com/guides/what-a-specification-actually-contains)
The document settles how a garment looks, what goes into it, how it is measured and made, and which approved version the maker must follow.
### [How clothes get checked before they ship](https://surajmalstudio.com/guides/checking-clothes-before-they-ship)
An inspection checks finished clothes against what was approved; its findings decide whether the order can ship or needs correction and another check.
### [How many samples come before production?](https://surajmalstudio.com/guides/how-many-samples-before-production)
There is no fixed sample count: the number follows the checks needed to approve the design, fit, sizes and finished clothes before production.
Read next [From pattern to approved sample 9 min read · Developing your product](https://surajmalstudio.com/guides/from-pattern-to-approved-sample) [What the document that gets a garment made contains 7 min read · Developing your product](https://surajmalstudio.com/guides/what-a-specification-actually-contains) [How clothes get checked before they ship 7 min read · Developing your product](https://surajmalstudio.com/guides/checking-clothes-before-they-ship) [How many samples come before production? 4 min read · Developing your product](https://surajmalstudio.com/guides/how-many-samples-before-production)
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